欧洲游记（二）
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中文
欧洲旅行回忆录
二
我们有句谚语，说是脚掌上生有圆盘纹路之人，命中注定是个流浪者。我担心，我自己的脚掌上布满了这种纹路。这倒并非纯属臆测。我曾竭力仔细审视自己的脚掌，想要辨认这些纹路，却一无所获——脚掌因严寒而开裂得厉害，圆盘或类似之物根本无从寻觅。然而，既有此传统说法，我便姑且认定我的脚掌上确实满布这些印记。而结果则是显而易见的——我本来一心想在巴黎盘桓一段时日，研习法语与法兰西文明；我离开了故交旧友，投奔一位新朋友，此人是一位普通法国人，不懂英语，而我的法语——说来也是奇事！我本打算，无法像哑巴那样生活自然会迫使我开口说法语，不消多久便能流利掌握这门语言——然而事与愿违，如今我却正游历维也纳、土耳其、希腊、埃及和耶路撒冷！唉，命运之流，谁能阻挡！——这封信，我是从伊斯兰世界最后一座权威之都——君士坦丁堡——写给你的！
我有三位旅伴——其中两位是法国人，第三位是美国人。那位美国人就是你们所熟知的麦克劳德小姐；法国男伴是朱尔·博瓦斯先生，法兰西著名的哲学家与文学家；法国女伴则是举世闻名的歌唱家卡尔薇小姐。法语中"先生"即"Monsieur"，"小姐"即"Mademoiselle"——发Z音。卡尔薇小姐是当今首屈一指的歌唱家——歌剧演唱家。她的音乐演出深受赞誉，仅凭歌唱一项，每年便有三四十万卢比的收入。我早先便与她相识。西方最杰出的女演员莎拉·伯恩哈特夫人与最杰出的歌唱家卡尔薇，都是法国血统，都对英语一窍不通，却时常赴英美演出，以表演和歌唱赚取数百万美元。法语是文明世界的语言，是西方社会高雅品位的标志，人人皆知；因此这两位女士既无闲暇，也无意愿去学英语。伯恩哈特夫人年岁已高；但当她化妆后登上舞台，对所扮演角色的年龄与性别的模拟，可谓出神入化！无论要她扮演女孩还是男孩，她都能惟妙惟肖地再现。那天赐的嗓音！此间人们说，她的声音有如银弦的叮咚！伯恩哈特夫人对印度怀有特殊的情感；她一再对我说，我们的国家"trés ancien, tres civilisé"——历史悠久，文明璀璨。有一年，她出演了一部以印度为题材的戏剧，在舞台上搭建了完整的印度街景——男男女女，老老幼幼，修行者与苦行僧，一应俱全——宛若印度真实图景！演出结束后她告诉我，为此她花了约一个月时间，走访各大博物馆，熟悉印度的男女服饰、街道、沐浴河坛以及一切与印度相关的事物。伯恩哈特夫人有着强烈的访印之愿——"C'est mon rêve！——这是我毕生的梦想"，她说。威尔士亲王（即其后的爱德华七世陛下，当时尚为威尔士亲王）也允诺带她去参加一次虎象猎游。但她随即表示，若要赴印，须花费约二十万卢比！她当然不缺钱财。"La divine Sarah"——神圣的莎拉——便是她的尊号；如此人物怎会缺钱？她出行从不乘普通列车，非专列不坐！这等排场与奢华，欧洲许多王公也难以企及！要订她演出的座位，须提前一个月并付出双倍票价！她绝不会有经济之虞！然而莎拉·伯恩哈特挥金如土。因此她的印度之行，眼下只能暂且搁置。
卡尔薇小姐今冬不打算演出，她要休养一段时日，前往埃及等气候温和之地。我作为她的客人随行。卡尔薇不仅专注于音乐，她学识颇丰，对哲学与宗教文学怀有深厚的热爱。她出身极为贫寒；凭借自身的天赋与不懈的努力，历经艰辛磨难，如今积累了巨额财富，成为帝王权贵们竞相景仰的对象！
名噪一时的女歌唱家不乏其人，诸如梅尔巴夫人、艾玛·艾姆斯夫人等；而男歌唱家中也有让·德·雷斯克、普朗松等出类拔萃者——这些人每年的收入都在二三十万卢比。但卡尔薇的艺术与一种独特的天才相结合。超凡的美貌、青春的活力、非凡的才华与天籁般的嗓音——这一切共同造就了卡尔薇在所有歌唱家中独占鳌头的地位。然而，痛苦与贫困是最好的老师！正是那极端的贫困、痛苦与童年的艰辛，卡尔薇与之搏斗而赢得了今日的胜利，这些经历在她的生命中孕育了一种卓越的同情心与深沉的严肃性。此外，在西方，既有进取精神，又有充裕的机遇。而在我们的国度，即便进取之心不缺，机遇却极为匮乏。孟加拉女性或许渴望获得教育，却因缺乏机遇而一无所成。孟加拉语中又有什么可资学习的呢？至多不过是一些粗陋的小说和戏剧！况且，如今的学问，不是局限于外语，便是局限于梵文，只为少数人所专有。而在这些西方国家，母语著作汗牛充栋；此外，凡有外文新著问世，立刻便被译成本国语言，呈现于大众面前。
朱尔·博瓦斯先生是一位著名作家；他尤其擅长从各种宗教与迷信中发掘历史真相。他曾撰写过一部著名的书，将中世纪欧洲盛行的魔鬼崇拜、巫术、招魂术、咒语及类似仪轨，以及迄今犹存的遗迹，整理成历史形式。他是一位优秀的诗人，倡导印度吠檀多（Vedanta）思想，这些思想已悄然渗入法国的维克多·雨果、拉马丁等伟大诗人，以及德国的歌德、席勒等伟大诗人的著作之中。吠檀多对欧洲诗歌与哲学的影响是深远的。我发现，凡是优秀的诗人，无不是吠檀多者；凡是撰写哲学论著之人，都不得不以某种形式借鉴吠檀多。只是其中一些人不愿承认这一债务，企图标榜自己的完全独创性，例如赫伯特·斯宾塞等人。但大多数人都坦然承认。在电报、铁路与报纸盛行的今日，他们又岂能不承认呢？博瓦斯先生谦逊温和，虽是普通人家，却诚挚地接纳我，以旅人之礼款待我于他在巴黎的寓所。如今他正随我们同行旅游。
我们还有另外两位旅伴，同行至君士坦丁堡——伊亚辛特神父与他的夫人。伊亚辛特，即"神父"，曾是罗马天主教会一个严格苦修派别的修士。他的学问、非凡的口才与卓越的苦行，使他在法国乃至整个天主教修会中享有崇高声誉。伟大的诗人维克多·雨果曾盛赞两人的法语文体，其中之一便是伊亚辛特神父。四十岁那年，伊亚辛特神父爱上了一位美国女子，并与之结婚。此事在社会上引起了轩然大波，天主教修会自然立即将他开除。脱下赤足宽袍的苦修服装，伊亚辛特神父换上了居家俗人的帽子、外套和皮靴，摇身一变，成了——卢瓦松先生。我却仍以他昔日的名字称呼他。这是一段久远的旧事，曾轰动整个欧洲大陆。新教徒以礼相待，天主教徒则开始憎恨他。教皇念及他的才学，不愿放弃他，请他留任希腊天主教神父，不要离开罗马教会。（希腊天主教派的神父允许结婚一次，但不得晋升高位。）然而卢瓦松夫人却将他强行从教皇的怀抱中拽了出来。此后岁月流逝，他们有了子女与孙辈；如今年迈的卢瓦松正前往耶路撒冷，试图在基督徒与穆斯林之间建立友好关系。他的夫人或许曾做过无数白日梦，以为卢瓦松能成为第二个马丁·路德，将教皇的宝座推翻——推入地中海。然而什么都没有发生；唯一的结果，正如法国人所说，他落得个两头不讨好的境地。但卢瓦松夫人至今仍沉湎于她那奇异的白日梦！年迈的卢瓦松言谈和蔼，谦逊有礼，虔诚之心溢于言表。每次与我相遇，他总要就各种宗教与信仰进行相当深入的长谈。但因其虔信的气质，他对不二（Advaita）论略有畏惧。卢瓦松夫人对我的态度，我担心，颇为不友好。每当我与老人谈及出离与修行等话题时，那些长久以来压抑在他年迈心中的情感便会重新苏醒，他的妻子想必全程都在暗自煎熬。此外，所有法国人，无论男女，都把全部责任推到那位女士身上；他们说，"那个女人毁了我们一位伟大的苦行修士！"卢瓦松夫人的处境确实很尴尬——尤其是因为他们居住在巴黎，一个天主教国家。人们厌恶见到已婚的神父；没有任何天主教徒会容忍一个拥有家室的人来宣讲宗教。卢瓦松夫人也带着一丝怨气。有一次，她表达了对某位女演员的不满，说道："你不结婚就与某某先生同居，实在太不像话了。"那位女演员立即反唇相讥道："我比你强过千倍。我与一个普通男人同居；或许我没有在法律上与他成婚；而你才是大罪人——你让这样一位伟大的修士违背了他的宗教誓言！你若实在爱慕那位修士，大可以做他的侍从；但你为何要娶他为夫，把他变成一个凡夫俗子，将他彻底毁了？"
然而我听了这一切，默然无语。老伊亚辛特神父确是一个性情温和、平和宁静之人，他与妻儿相处甚乐——全法国人又能奈何？我想，若他妻子稍能退让，一切便可迎刃而解。但有一点我注意到，即在任何国家，男女对事物的理解与判断方式各有不同。男人有一种视角，女人有另一种视角；男人从一种立场论事，女人从另一种立场论事。男人宽宥女性而将责任归咎于男性；而女性则宽宥男性而将一切责任推卸给女性。
与这些女士先生们同行，我得到了一个特别的好处，那就是，除了那位美国女士以外，没有人懂英语；说英语在此完全不被接受（在西方，公开场合只说大家都懂的语言，否则是失礼的），因此我无论如何必须以法语交谈和倾听。
从巴黎，我们的朋友马克沁为我提供了写给各地的介绍信，以便能够妥善参观各国。马克沁是著名的马克沁机枪的发明者——那种能连续发射子弹、无需手动即可自动装弹射击的枪。马克沁出生于美国，如今定居英国，在那里设有枪械工厂等。每当有人在他面前频繁提及他的枪，他便会恼火地说："朋友，难道我一生就只做了发明那件杀人武器这一件事吗？"马克沁对中国和印度抱有仰慕之情，是一位颇有建树的宗教哲学作家。他早年读过我的著作，对我推崇备至——可以说，过于推崇。他向各国君主和统治者供应枪械，在每个国家都享有盛名，尽管他的特别挚友是李鸿章，他对中国情有独钟，对儒家学说更是心怀景仰。他时常在报纸上以中文笔名撰文，抨击基督徒——揭示他们赴华的真实动机，等等。他对基督教传教士在华传教一事，深恶痛绝！他的妻子在对中国的热爱与对基督教的憎恶方面，与丈夫如出一辙！马克沁无儿无女；他是一位年迈而富甲一方的老人。
旅行计划如下——从巴黎乘火车至维也纳，再至君士坦丁堡；然后乘轮船至雅典和希腊，再横渡地中海至埃及，然后是小亚细亚、耶路撒冷，等等。"东方快车"每日从巴黎开往君士坦丁堡，按照美国式样设有卧铺、座位和餐饮设施。虽不及美国的车厢那般完善，但设备相当齐全。我预定于1900年10月24日乘那班列车离开巴黎。
今日是10月23日；明晚我将告别巴黎。今年的巴黎是文明世界的中心，因为这是巴黎博览会之年，来自全球各地的杰出人士云集于此。各国的智识巨擘今日齐聚巴黎，以各自的才华为本国增添光彩。今日在这伟大都会的钟声中留下名字的幸运者，同时也将在世界面前为自己的祖国戴上荣冠。而你在哪里，我的母邦，孟加拉，在这云集了德国、法国、英国、意大利及其他各国学者的伟大都城之中？有谁在宣扬你的名字？有谁在宣告你的存在？就在那白色才俊的璀璨星河之中，有一位卓然出众的年轻英雄挺身而出，宣扬了我们母邦孟加拉的名字——他就是举世瞩目的科学家，博斯博士（后来的博斯爵士）J·C·博斯！孤身一人，年轻的孟加拉物理学家以迅雷之势，以其辉煌的才华令今日的西方听众倾倒；那电光般的冲击，为母邦半死之躯注入了新生的脉动！今日物理学界的翘楚是——印度人、孟加拉人贾加迪什·钱德拉·博斯！好样的，英雄！无论博斯博士和他那才华横溢、堪称楷模的妻子走访哪些国家，他们在每一处都为印度增光添彩——为孟加拉的桂冠增添新的荣耀。幸福的一对！
而莱格特先生以巨额花费在他巴黎府邸举办的无数次名流聚会——广邀各界杰出人士出席的沙龙——今日也将画上句点。
各种类型的杰出人物——诗人、哲学家、科学家、道德家、政治家、歌唱家、教授、画家、艺术家、雕塑家、音乐家，男男女女——都曾被他的热情款待所吸引，齐聚于莱格特先生的府邸。那如山涧飞瀑般清澈流畅的滔滔辩论，那来自四面八方如火花迸发的情感激流，那令人如痴如醉的音乐，那智识巨擘相互激荡碰撞的思想磁流——这一切曾让在场的每一个人如痴如醉，浑忘时间与空间——而今也将戛然而止。
世间万物皆有终结。今日我再度游览了巴黎博览会——这令人目眩神迷的奇思荟萃，宛如凝固的闪电，这人间绝无仅有的天上奇观！
巴黎已连续两三天阴雨绵绵。这段时日，素来对法兰西慷慨垂顾的太阳收起了他惯常的恩泽。或许他的面容被云层遮蔽，因为厌倦于目睹这片艺术与艺术家、学问与学者的聚会背后悄然流淌的感官享乐暗流；或许他将面庞藏匿于阴云之下，为这座由彩色木料与画布搭建的虚幻天堂即将消逝而悲怆哀痛。
我们也庆幸即将离开。博览会的撤除是一件大事；这天堂般的人间乐园、伊甸园式的巴黎，其街道将被深及膝盖的泥浆和灰土所填满。除一两座主体建筑外，所有房屋及其构件不过是木料、破布与石灰水的堆砌展示——正如这整个世界一样！而当它们被拆除时，石灰粉尘四处飘散，令人窒息；破布和砂砾等物使街道极为污秽；若再加上降雨，那便是一片狼藉。
10月24日傍晚，列车离开巴黎。夜色漆黑，窗外一无所见。博瓦斯先生与我同占一节车厢——早早便就寝了。从睡梦中醒来，我们发现已越过法国边境，进入了德国领土。我早已对德国有过全面的了解；然而德国在法国之后，给人一种相当不协调的感觉。"一边，月亮正在西沉"（यात्येकतोऽस्तशिखरं पतिरोषधीनां——引自迦梨陀娑的《沙恭达罗》）——举世瞩目的法兰西正在深思熟虑的报复烈火中缓缓自燃——而另一边，中央集权的、年轻强盛的德意志则已开始以迅猛的步伐在地平线上昂首阔步。一边是黑发、身材较矮、享乐成性、高度文明的法国人的精巧工艺，对于他们而言艺术即是生命；另一边则是金发、高大魁梧的日耳曼人笨拙的涂抹与粗率的手工。巴黎之后，西方世界再无第二座城市；处处皆是对巴黎的仿效——至少是对巴黎的模仿尝试。然而在法国，那种艺术充满了优雅与空灵之美，而在德国、英国和美国，模仿则显得粗糙笨拙。法国人即便使用力量，其姿态也似乎分外优美；而德国人即便是刻意展现美感，也令人望而生畏。法国天才的面容，即便因愤怒而眉头紧锁，依然美丽动人；德国天才的面容，即便因喜悦而笑容满面，看上去也令人不寒而栗。法国文明充满了神经质的活力，如同樟脑或麝香——瞬间挥发弥散，充盈整个空间；而德国文明则充满了肌肉般的力量，沉重如铅或水银——无论落于何处，皆纹丝不动。德国人的肌肉可以不知疲倦地持续发力、连续击打，直至死亡；而法国人体态纤弱阴柔，但一旦集中力量发出一击，便是势不可当的铁锤之击。
德国人正在仿照法式风格建造宏大的楼宇与宅邸，并在顶部安置巨大的雕像和骑马像等，然而看到德国的两层楼建筑，不禁令人想问——这是人类的住所，还是大象和骆驼的马厩？而法国那供大象和马匹居住的五层楼厩房，看上去反倒像是仙女的居所。
美国受到德国理念的深刻影响；每座城市中都有数以百万计的德国人。语言自然是英语，但美国正在潜移默化地走向日耳曼化。德国的人口正在迅速增长，体格异常强健。如今德国是全欧洲的主宰，其地位凌驾于众国之上！德国在所有国家之前率先推行了男女义务教育，以法律惩处文盲，今日她正在享受那棵大树结出的丰硕果实。德国陆军在声誉上首屈一指，德国也誓言要在海军上同样成为翘楚。德国的商品制造已将英国也甩在了身后！德国货物和德国人本身甚至在英国的殖民地上也在逐渐取得垄断地位。在德国皇帝的号令之下，各国在中国战场上心甘情愿地服从了德国总司令的统帅！
整整一天，列车疾驰穿越德国，至下午才抵达奥地利边境——昔日德意志霸权的古老领地，而今却已是异乡他土。在欧洲旅行有若干麻烦之处。每个国家对某些物品征收巨额关税，或将某些商品列为政府专营，例如烟草。此外，进入俄国和土耳其需持有国王颁发的护照，否则完全被拒于门外；护照是必备之物。而且在俄国和土耳其，你所有的书籍和文件都会被没收；只有当当局审阅确认其中没有任何反对俄国或土耳其政府及宗教的内容，才会归还，否则一律充公。在其他国家，你的烟草也是一大麻烦来源。不论是否携带烟草，你都必须打开行李箱、旅行箱和包裹供检查。而要抵达君士坦丁堡，必须途经两个大国——德国和奥地利，以及许多小国；这些小国以前曾是土耳其的地区，后来独立的基督教君主们联合起来，从伊斯兰教手中夺取了尽可能多的基督教地区。这些小蚂蚁的咬噬，有时比大蚂蚁还要厉害。
10月25日傍晚，列车抵达奥地利首都维也纳。奥地利和俄国的皇族成员被称为大公和大公夫人。有两位大公要在维也纳下车；在他们下车之前，其他乘客一律不得下车。于是我们只好等候。几位身着缀带制服的军官和几名戴着羽毛帽的士兵在等候大公们，大公们在众人簇拥下走下列车。我们也如释重负，赶紧下车，办理行李检查手续。乘客不多，我们很快便完成了行李申报手续。事先已安排好了旅馆，一位旅馆人员驾着马车等候我们。我们如期抵达旅馆。夜间自然不便外出游览；于是次日清晨我们开始游览城市。在欧洲所有旅馆，以及除英国和德国以外几乎所有国家，通行的都是法式风格。他们像印度教徒一样每日用餐两次；中午十二时前用早餐，晚上八时用晚餐。清晨大约八九时，他们喝少量咖啡。除英国和俄国外，茶在其他地方并不流行。早餐在法语中称为déjeuner，晚餐称为dîner。茶在俄国极为普遍——那里气候过于寒冷，而中国又近在咫尺。中国茶品质上乘，大部分流向俄国。俄国的饮茶方式也类似中国，即不加牛奶。加入牛奶的茶或咖啡，有如毒药，对人有害无益。真正的茶饮民族——中国人、日本人、俄国人及中亚居民，饮茶皆不加牛奶。同样，原始的咖啡饮用民族，如土耳其人，喝咖啡也不加牛奶。仅在俄国，他们在茶中放入一片柠檬和一块方糖。穷苦人家则将一块方糖含在口中喝茶，饮完后将那块方糖传给下一个人，如此重复。
维也纳是一座以巴黎为蓝本的小城市。但奥地利人在血统上属于日耳曼民族。奥地利皇帝迄今曾是几乎整个德意志的皇帝。在当今时代，由于普鲁士国王威廉的高瞻远瞩、其能干的大臣俾斯麦出色的外交手腕，以及冯·毛奇将军卓越的军事天才，普鲁士国王如今是整个德意志（除奥地利外）的皇帝。奥地利失去了往日的荣耀，丧失了原有的权力，正在勉力维持其昔日的名称与声望。奥地利皇室——哈布斯堡王朝——是欧洲历史最悠久、最贵族气派的王朝。正是这一奥地利王朝迄今统治着德意志的皇帝之位——这个德意志，其王公们高踞于欧洲几乎所有国家的王位，甚至其藩属小邦的首领也占据着英国和俄国等强大帝国的王座。奥地利对那份荣耀与声望至今依然充满渴望，只是力不从心。土耳其被称为欧洲的"病夫"；那么奥地利应当被称为"病妇"。奥地利属于天主教派，直到最近，奥地利帝国仍被称为"神圣罗马帝国"。现代德意志以新教徒占多数。奥地利皇帝一向是教皇的得力助手、忠实追随者和罗马天主教派的领袖。如今奥地利皇帝是欧洲唯一的天主教统治者；天主教会"长女"法兰西已成共和国，而西班牙和葡萄牙已然衰落！意大利只给教皇留下了设置宝座的一隅之地，剥夺了教皇全部的辉煌与统治权；意大利国王与罗马教皇之间势同水火，彼此相憎。罗马，教皇的首都，如今是意大利的首都。国王居住在他所占据的教皇昔日宫殿之中，教皇昔日的意大利古国如今已缩小至梵蒂冈的范围之内。然而教皇在宗教事务上仍有巨大影响力——奥地利是其主要支柱。现代意大利正是在反对奥地利的斗争中——反对这位教皇的盟友、世纪之久的压迫者奥地利——而崛起。因此奥地利反对意大利——反对，是因为她失去了意大利。然而不幸的是，年轻的意大利在英国的错误引导下，致力于建立一支强大的陆海军。然而资金从何而来？于是，深陷债务的意大利走向了衰落之路；更为不幸的是，她还在进军非洲、扩张帝国的过程中给自己带来了新的麻烦。被阿比西尼亚君主击败之后，她已颜面尽失、威望扫地。普鲁士与此同时在一场大战中击败了奥地利，将她远远推开。奥地利在缓慢地走向衰亡，而意大利同样因误用其新生命力而作茧自缚。
奥地利皇室至今仍是欧洲所有皇室中最为自豪的。它自诩为历史最悠久、最贵族高贵的王朝。这一家族的婚姻及其他联姻关系均以极度审慎的态度缔结，凡非罗马天主教家族，均不得与之联姻。正是与这一家族联姻的诱惑，导致了拿破仑大帝的覆灭。说来颇为奇特，他突发奇想，要娶某位高贵王族之女为妻，并通过绵延子嗣缔造一个伟大的王朝。这位英雄，当被询及家世时曾答道："我的贵族头衔不假任何人之赐——我将是一个伟大王朝的奠基人"——也就是说，他要开创一个强大的王朝，而非借助某位祖先的光辉来为自己增色——就是这位英雄，陷入了这一家族声望的深渊。
约瑟芬皇后被休，在战场上击败奥地利皇帝并娶其女儿为妻，拿破仑盛大迎娶奥地利公主玛丽·路易斯，儿子降生，新生婴儿被册封为罗马王，拿破仑的倒台，岳父的敌视，莱比锡、滑铁卢、圣赫勒拿，皇后玛丽·路易斯携子回父家居住，拿破仑的王室配偶嫁给一名普通士兵，独子罗马王在外祖父家中去世——这一切都是众所周知的历史事件。
法兰西在相对虚弱的处境下，如今正在沉浸于对往昔荣光的追忆——近年来有关拿破仑的书籍层出不穷。萨尔都等剧作家正在大量创作关于已逝的拿破仑的戏剧；而伯恩哈特夫人和雷雅娜等女演员则每夜在座无虚席的剧场上演这些剧目。近来，伯恩哈特夫人凭借一部题为《雄鹰》（幼鹰）的戏剧，在巴黎引起了极大轰动。
幼鹰是拿破仑唯一的儿子，实际上被软禁在外祖父位于维也纳的宫殿之中。奥地利皇帝的大臣、权谋老辣的梅特涅，时刻警惕，不让有关他父亲英雄事迹的故事进入这个男孩的脑海。然而拿破仑的几位老战士想方设法以隐名方式混入了男孩在美泉宫的侍从队伍；他们的打算是设法将男孩带回法国，驱逐欧洲各强国联手扶植的波旁王朝，重建波拿巴王朝。这个孩子是一位伟大英雄之子，很快那潜伏的英雄主义便在他心中被父亲辉煌的战绩故事所唤醒。有一天，男孩在密谋者的陪同下逃离了美泉宫。然而梅特涅的敏锐头脑早已嗅出了此事的端倪，他截断了这段出逃之路。拿破仑之子被遣送回美泉宫，那只翅膀被束缚的幼鹰，不久便在心碎中郁郁而终！
这座美泉宫是一座普通的宫殿。当然，各个房间装饰极为豪华；其中一间或许陈列的全是中国工艺品，另一间是印度艺术品，第三间是某个其他国家的产品，诸如此类；宫殿附带的花园亦极为迷人。然而如今凡来参观此宫殿的人，都是冲着看拿破仑之子曾经居住的房间，或他的书房，或他离世的房间，等等。许多轻率的法国男女正向守卫询问，哪个房间属于"幼鹰"，"幼鹰"曾睡过哪张床，等等。多么愚蠢的问题！奥地利人只知道他是拿破仑的儿子，而这段关系的建立是通过强行娶走他们的公主；那种仇恨至今尚未消散。王子是皇帝的外孙，无家可归，他们不得不给他提供庇护，但他们无法赋予他"罗马王"这样的头衔；他只是奥地利皇帝的外孙，身为大公，仅此而已。或许你们法国人如今写了一本书，称他为幼鹰，加上想象性的场景描绘和伯恩哈特夫人的天才演绎，在故事中制造了巨大的兴趣，然而一位奥地利守卫又怎会知道那个名字呢？此外，那本书中还写道，奥地利皇帝遵从其大臣梅特涅的建议，在某种意义上杀死了拿破仑的儿子！
听到"幼鹰"这个名字，那位守卫摆出一副长脸，内心满腹厌烦地继续带人参观各个房间；他又能怎样呢？——为了那点小费，他也不得不忍耐。况且，在奥地利等国，军事部门的薪酬极为微薄，他们的生活几乎仅够糊口；当然，服役数年之后允许他们回家。守卫的面庞因爱国情怀而阴沉下来，但那只手却本能地伸向了小费。法国游客将几枚银币放入守卫手中，一边谈论着"幼鹰"，一边痛骂梅特涅，然后离去；而守卫则深深鞠躬，关上了门。他心里肯定对整个法国人的祖宗送去了最甜蜜的"问候"。
在维也纳最值得一看的是博物馆，尤其是科学博物馆，这是一座对学者裨益良多的机构。馆内收藏了各种古代已灭绝动物骨架的精美标本。在美术馆中，荷兰艺术家的绘画占据了大部分。荷兰画派几乎不追求暗示性；这一流派以精确临摹自然物体和生物而著称。有的艺术家花费数年时间描绘一篮子鱼，或一块肉，或一杯水——那鱼、那肉、那杯中之水，令人叹为观止。然而荷兰画派的女性形象，看起来活像运动员。
维也纳当然具有德国的学术精神与德国的智识修养，但那些助推土耳其逐渐衰亡的原因在这里也同样发挥着作用——即各种民族与语言的混杂。奥地利本土居民说德语；匈牙利人属于鞑靼族裔，说另一种语言；还有一些人说希腊语，是希腊教会的基督徒。奥地利没有能力将如此众多不同的派别融合为一体。因此她衰落了。
当今时代，一股民族主义的巨大浪潮正席卷欧洲，人们希望同一种语言、同一种宗教、同一种血统的人团结在一起。凡此种团结得以有效实现之处，便展现出强大的力量；而凡此种团结无从实现之处，灭亡便是必然。现任奥地利皇帝（弗兰茨·约瑟夫二世于1916年辞世）驾崩之后，德国必定会试图吞并奥地利帝国中说德语的那一部分——而俄国及其他国家必定会加以反对；因此存在爆发一场可怕战争的可能。现任皇帝年事已高，这一灾难可能很快便会降临。德国皇帝如今是土耳其苏丹的盟友；当德国试图夺取奥地利领土时，作为俄国之敌的土耳其必定会对俄国施以某种抵制；因此德国皇帝对土耳其态度极为友好。
在维也纳待了三天便已令我厌倦。在巴黎之后游览欧洲，犹如在饱享盛宴之后品尝劣质食品——那衣着服饰，那用餐方式，处处都是同一种风格；遍地都是那同一种黑色西装，和那同一顶奇怪的帽子——令人作呕！此外，头顶是阴云密布，眼前则是这一群戴着黑帽、穿着黑外套的人们——令人窒息，仿佛喘不过气来。整个欧洲正在逐渐走向同一种服饰方式，同一种生活模式！这是大自然的法则，这正是死亡的征兆！经过数百年的规训，我们的祖先已将我们塑造成一个模子，使我们所有人都以同样的方式洁牙、洗面、用餐、做一切事情，结果是我们已逐渐变成了纯粹的机器；生命已经离去，我们只是像许多机器一样在运转而已！机器从不说"是"或"否"，从不为任何事情烦恼，它们"沿着祖先走过的道路前进"，然后腐烂、死亡。欧洲人也将面临同样的命运！"时代的进程永在变迁！若所有人都采用同样的服饰、同样的食物、同样的说话方式、事事相同，他们将逐渐变得如同无数台机器，将逐渐踏上祖先走过的道路"，而作为必然的后果——他们将腐烂、死亡！
10月28日晚九时，我们再度乘坐那班东方快车，于30日抵达君士坦丁堡。这两夜一天，列车穿越了匈牙利、塞尔维亚和保加利亚。匈牙利人是奥地利皇帝的子民，但其头衔是"奥地利皇帝兼匈牙利国王"。匈牙利人与土耳其人同属一个民族，与西藏人有亲缘关系。匈牙利人沿里海以北进入欧洲，而土耳其人则通过波斯西部边境和小亚细亚缓慢占领欧洲。匈牙利人是基督徒，土耳其人是穆斯林，但鞑靼血统特有的尚武精神在两者身上均有体现。匈牙利人为争取脱离奥地利的独立而一再奋战，如今只是名义上仍联合在一起。奥地利皇帝仅仅是名义上的匈牙利国王。他们的首都布达佩斯是一座整洁美丽的城市。匈牙利人是一个爱好享乐、热爱音乐的民族，在巴黎各处都能见到匈牙利乐队。
塞尔维亚、保加利亚等地曾是土耳其的辖区，在俄土战争之后已实际上独立；但土耳其苏丹仍是他们名义上的皇帝；塞尔维亚和保加利亚在外交事务上没有自主权。欧洲有三个文明国家——法国、德国和英国。其余的几乎与我们一样贫困落后，其中大多数文明程度之低，你在亚洲也找不到与之相当的退化民族。在整个塞尔维亚和保加利亚，到处都是同样的泥土房屋，衣衫褴褛的人们，以及成堆的污秽——我几乎以为自己回到了印度！此外，由于他们是基督徒，必然饲养众多猪只；而一头猪造成的污秽，远超两百个野蛮人所为。住在泥墙泥顶的土屋里，身着破烂衣衫，周围是成群的猪——这便是塞尔维亚人或保加利亚人的写照！经过无数流血与战争，他们摆脱了土耳其的枷锁；然而随之而来的是一个严重的困境——他们必须按照欧洲模式建立自己的军队，否则其中任何一个国家哪怕一天的生存也无法保障。当然，迟早他们都将被俄国吞并；但即便是这短短两天的存在，没有军队也是不可能的。因此他们必须实行征兵制。
法国在一个不幸的时刻遭受了来自德国的惨败。出于愤怒与恐惧，她将每一位公民变成了士兵。每个男人都必须在军队中服役一段时间，学习军事技能；无人可获豁免。他必须在军营中生活三年，学习作战，扛枪操练，哪怕是生来的百万富翁也不例外。政府负责提供食宿，薪酬是每天一生丁（约合一派）。服完役后，他在家中还必须随时准备服现役两年；此后十五年，他必须随时准备在第一次召唤时立即报到服役。德国被惹怒了一头狮子，因此她也不得不做好准备。其他国家也在相互恐惧中相继推行了征兵制——遍及整个欧洲，唯有英国除外。英国作为岛国，持续加强其海军，但谁知道布尔战争的教训是否不会迫使她也推行征兵制。俄国拥有最庞大的人口，因此能够集结欧洲最大规模的军队。如今，那些欧洲列强通过肢解土耳其而扶植起来的挂名小国，如塞尔维亚和保加利亚——它们一旦诞生，便必须拥有训练有素、装备精良的现代军队和枪炮等。然而最终资金从何而来？结果是农民不得不穿上破烂的衣衫——而在城镇里，你却能见到身着华丽军服的士兵。欧洲到处都是对士兵的狂热崇拜——到处都是士兵。然而自由是一回事，奴役又是另一回事；即便是最出色的工作，若被迫由他人强制去做，也失去了其魅力。没有个人责任感，任何人都无法成就伟业。带着残羹剩饭和破烂衣衫的自由，也远胜过用金链锁住的奴役，强出千万倍。奴隶在此生和来世都承受着地狱的苦难。欧洲人嘲笑塞尔维亚人和保加利亚人，用他们的错误和缺点来讥讽他们。但在经历了如此漫长的奴役之后，他们怎能一日之内便达到精通？他们必然会犯错误——是的，会犯成百上千个错误——但他们将通过这些错误汲取教训，在学会了之后加以改正。给予他责任，最软弱的人也将变得坚强，无知的人也将变得明智。
列车正穿越匈牙利、罗马尼亚和其他国家。在那垂死的奥地利帝国所涵盖的各民族中，匈牙利人至今仍保有活力。除一两个小民族外，欧洲所有民族都属于欧洲学者称之为印欧族或雅利安族的伟大族系。匈牙利人是为数不多的不说梵文系语言的民族之一。匈牙利人和土耳其人，如前所述，属于同一民族。在相对近代，这支极为强大的民族在亚洲和欧洲建立了霸权。现在称为突厥斯坦的地区，位于西喜马拉雅山脉和兴都库什山脉以北，是土耳其人最初的家园。土耳其语称该国为"恰格窝"。德里的莫卧儿王朝、现任的波斯皇室、君士坦丁堡土耳其苏丹的王朝，以及匈牙利人，都逐渐从那个国家扩展了他们的统治，从印度开始一路延伸至欧洲，即便在今日，这些王朝仍自称为恰格窝人，说着同一种语言。当然，这些土耳其人在很久以前是未开化的，他们带着牛羊马匹的群落，携家带口，带着所有的财物四处游荡，在任何能找到足够牧草的地方暂时扎营。当草和水告竭，便迁往他处。即便在今日，这一民族的许多家族仍在中亚以这种游牧方式生活。他们在语言上与中亚各民族高度相似，但在外貌上略有差异。土耳其人的面庞在头骨形状和颧骨隆起方面与蒙古人相似，但土耳其人的鼻子并不扁平，而是相当长，眼睛直而大，尽管与蒙古人相比，两眼之间的距离较宽。由此看来，自远古以来，雅利安人与闪米特人的血液便已渗入了这支土耳其民族。土耳其人自古以来便极度嗜好战争。而他们与说梵文的民族以及坎大哈和波斯人民的混血，产生了像阿富汗人、希尔济人、哈扎拉人、巴拉克扎伊人、优素福扎伊人等嗜好战争的民族，他们以战争为激情，多次侵扰印度。
在极为古老的时代，这支土耳其民族曾多次征服印度西部各省，建立了广袤的王国。他们是佛教徒，或在占领印度领土后皈依佛教。在克什米尔的古代史中，有记载这些著名的土耳其皇帝——呼什卡、育什卡和迦腻色迦。正是这位迦腻色迦创立了被称为大乘的北方佛教学派。此后很久，他们中的大多数皈依了伊斯兰教，彻底摧毁了中亚主要的佛教圣地，如坎大哈和喀布尔。在皈依伊斯兰教之前，他们习惯于汲取所征服国家的学问与文化，并通过融合其他国家的文化来努力传播文明。然而自从他们成为穆斯林以来，只剩下了战争的本能；他们没有丝毫学问与文化的残存；恰恰相反，凡落入他们统治之下的国家，文明便会逐渐熄灭。在现代阿富汗和坎大哈等地的许多地方，至今仍存有他们佛教祖先建造的壮观的佛塔、寺院、神庙和巨型雕像。由于土耳其人的渗透以及他们皈依伊斯兰教，那些神庙等建筑几近废墟，而现今的阿富汗人及其盟族已变得如此粗野与文盲，以致于他们不但无法仿效那些古代建筑艺术，反而相信那些建筑是金尼等超自然精灵的创造，并坚信如此宏大的工程超出了人类的能力范围。波斯如今衰落的主要原因在于，皇室属于强悍而未开化的土耳其族裔，而臣民却是高度文明的古代波斯人——雅利安人的后裔。如此，君士坦丁堡的帝国——文明雅利安人的后裔希腊人和罗马人最后的政治舞台——已在强悍野蛮的土耳其人的铁蹄之下走向毁灭。印度的莫卧儿皇帝是这一规律的唯一例外；或许这是由于融入了印度教思想和印度血液所致。在拉杰普特吟游诗人的编年史中，所有征服印度的伊斯兰王朝一律被称为土耳其人。这是一个非常准确的称谓，因为无论征服的伊斯兰军队由哪些民族构成，领导权始终掌握在土耳其人手中。
所谓伊斯兰对印度的入侵、征服或殖民，其实不过是这样的意思：在从佛教叛离的伊斯兰土耳其人的领导下，那些由同一民族中被强行迫使皈依伊斯兰教、并在土耳其人麾下服役的，从佛教或吠陀宗教叛离的另一部分，一再征服了依然坚守祖先信仰的印度民族的那一部分。当然，土耳其人的语言，就像他们的外貌一样，已经经历了相当程度的混杂；尤其是那些离开故土最远的部分。恰格窝人拥有最为混杂的语言形式。今年波斯沙阿访问了巴黎博览会，并经由君士坦丁堡乘火车返回本国。尽管时间与地点的差距如此巨大，苏丹与沙阿却以他们古老的土耳其母语相互交谈。但苏丹的土耳其语夹杂着波斯语、阿拉伯语和少量希腊语词汇，而沙阿的语言则相对纯正。
在远古时代，这些恰格窝土耳其人分为两个部落；一支被称为"白羊"，另一支被称为"黑羊"。这两支部落从克什米尔以北的故乡出发，赶着羊群，掠夺各地，直至抵达里海之滨。"白羊"沿里海以北深入欧洲，夺取了彼时几近崩溃的罗马帝国的一片土地，建立了匈牙利王国；而"黑羊"则沿里海以南推进，逐渐占领了波斯西部地区，越过高加索，将小亚细亚等阿拉伯领土一一纳入掌中；他们逐渐夺取了哈里发的王座，并将西罗马帝国的残余一点一点地吞并。在极为遥远的古代，这些土耳其人是蛇崇拜的狂热信徒。很可能正是这些王朝，被古代印度人称为那迦族和塔克萨卡族。后来他们皈依了佛教；此后他们往往乐于接受他们在某一特定时期所征服的某一特定国家的宗教。在相对近代，在我们所谈到的这两个部落中，"白羊"征服了基督徒并皈依了基督教，而"黑羊"征服了穆斯林并接受了伊斯兰教。但在他们的基督教或伊斯兰教之中，经过研究，至今仍可追溯到蛇崇拜与佛教的层积。
匈牙利人尽管在民族和语言上属于土耳其族裔，在宗教上却是基督徒——罗马天主教徒。在过去，宗教狂热不尊重任何纽带——既不尊重语言的纽带，也不尊重血缘的纽带，更不尊重国家的纽带。匈牙利人始终是土耳其的死敌；若非匈牙利人的援助，奥地利等基督教国家在许多场合将无法维持其存在。在现代，随着教育的普及以及语言学和人种学的兴起，人们正越来越被语言与血缘的亲缘关系所吸引，而宗教认同感则在逐渐松弛。因此，在受过教育的匈牙利人和土耳其人之间，正在滋长一种民族统一的情感。尽管匈牙利是奥地利帝国的一部分，但她一再试图脱离。多次革命和起义的结果是，匈牙利如今只是名义上是奥地利帝国的一个省，但实际上在各方面均已独立。奥地利皇帝被称为"奥地利皇帝兼匈牙利国王"。匈牙利独立于奥地利管理其所有内部事务，在这些方面，臣民拥有充分的权力。奥地利皇帝在此继续担任名义上的领袖，但即便是这一丝关联，看来也不会持续太久。土耳其民族特有的勇武善战、宽宏大量等美德，在匈牙利人身上也同样存在。此外，由于未皈依伊斯兰教，他们不像穆斯林那样将音乐等天赋艺术视为魔鬼的圈套，因此匈牙利人在音乐上造诣极深，声名远播欧洲。
以前我一直以为，寒冷气候的人们不吃辣椒，辣椒不过是温热气候人们的一种不良习惯。但那种从匈牙利开始、在罗马尼亚和保加利亚等地达到顶峰的吃辣习惯，在我看来，甚至胜过了南印度人。
English
MEMOIRS OF EUROPEAN TRAVEL
II
We have an adage among us that one that has a disc-like pattern on the soles of his feet becomes a vagabond. I fear, I have my soles inscribed all over with them. And there is not much room for probability, either. I have tried my best to discover them by scrutinising the soles, but all to no purpose — the feet have been dreadfully cracked through the severity of cold, and no discs or anything of the kind could be traced. However, when there is the tradition, I take it for granted that my soles are full of those signs. But the results are quite patent — it was my cherished desire to remain in Paris for some time and study the French language and civilisation; I left my old friends and acquaintances and put up with a new friend, a Frenchman of ordinary means, who knew no English, and my French — well, it was something quite extraordinary! I had this in mind that the inability to live like a dumb man would naturally force me to talk French, and I would attain fluency in that language in no time — but on the contrary I am now on a tour through Vienna, Turkey, Greece, Egypt, and Jerusalem! Well, who can stem the course of the inevitable! — And this letter I am writing to you from the last remaining capital of Mohammedan supremacy — from Constantinople!
I have three travelling companions — two of them French and the third an American. The American is Miss MacLeod whom you know very well; the French male companion is Monsieur Jules Bois, a famous philosopher and litterateur of France; and the French lady friend is the world-renowned singer, Mademoiselle Calvé. "Mister" is "Monsieur" in the French language, and "Miss" is "Mademoiselle" — with a Z-sound. Mademoiselle Calvé is the foremost singer — opera singer — of the present day. Her musical performances are so highly appreciated that she has an annual income of three to four lakhs of rupees, solely from singing. I had previously been acquainted with her. The foremost actress in the West, Madame Sarah Bernhardt, and the foremost singer, Calvé, are both of them of French extraction, and both totally ignorant of English, but they visit England and America occasionally and earn millions of dollars by acting and singing. French is the language of the civilised world, the mark of gentility in the West, and everybody knows it; consequently these two ladies have neither the leisure nor the inclination to learn English. Madame Bernhardt is an aged lady; but when she steps on the stage after dressing, her imitation of the age and sex of the role she plays is perfect! A girl or a boy — whatever part you want her to play, she is an exact representation of that. And that wonderful voice! People here say her voice has the ring of silver strings! Madame Bernhardt has a special regard for India; she tells me again and again that our country is "trés ancien, tres civilisé" — very ancient and very civilised. One year she performed a drama touching on India, in which she set up a whole Indian street-scene on the stage — men, women, and children, Sadhus and Nagas, and everything — an exact picture of India! After the performance she told me that for about a month she had visited every museum and made herself acquainted with the men and women and their dress, the streets and bathing ghats and everything relating to India. Madame Bernhardt has a very strong desire to visit India. — "C'est mon rave! — It is the dream of my life", she says. Again, the Prince of Wales (His late Majesty King Edward VII, the then Prince of Wales.) has promised to take her over to a tiger and elephant hunting excursion. But then she said she must spend some two lakhs of rupees if she went to India! She is of course in no want of money. "La divine Sarah" — the divine Sarah — is her name; how can she want money, she who never travels but by a special train! That pomp and luxury many a prince of Europe cannot afford to indulge in! One can only secure a seat for her performance by paying double the fees, and that a month in advance! Well, she is not going to suffer want of money! But Sarah Bernhardt is given to spending lavishly. Her travel to India is therefore put off for the present.
Mademoiselle Calve will not sing this winter, she will take a rest and is going to temperate climates like Egypt etc. I am going as her guest. Calve has not devoted herself to music alone, she is sufficiently learned and has a great love for philosophical and religious literature. She was born amidst very poor circumstances; gradually, through her own genius and undergoing great labour and much hardship, she has now amassed a large fortune and has become the object of adoration of kings and potentates!
There are famous lady singers, such as Madame Melba, Madame Emma Ames, and others; and very distinguished singers, such as Jean de Reszke, Plancon, and the rest — all of whom earn two or three lakhs of rupees a year! But with Calvé's art is coupled a unique genius. Extraordinary beauty, youth, genius, and a celestial voice — all these have conspired to raise Calvé to the forefront of all singers. But there is no better teacher than pain and poverty! That extreme penury and pain and hardship of childhood, a constant struggle against which has won for Calvé this victory, have engendered a remarkable sympathy and a profound seriousness in her life. Again, in the West, there are ample opportunities along with the enterprising spirit. But in our country, there is a sad dearth of opportunities, even if the spirit of enterprise be not absent. The Bengali woman may be keen after acquiring education, but it comes to nought for want of opportunities. And what is there to learn from in the Bengali language? At best some poor novels and dramas! Then again, learning is confined at present to a foreign tongue or to Sanskrit and is only for the chosen few. In these Western countries there are innumerable books in the mother-tongue; over and above that, whenever something new comes out in a foreign tongue, it is at once translated and placed before the public.
Monsieur Jules Bois is a famous writer; he is particularly an adept in the discovery of historical truths in the different religions and superstitions. He has written a famous book putting into historical form the devil-worship, sorcery, necromancy, incantation, and such other rites that were in vogue in Mediaeval Europe, and the traces of those that obtain to this day. He is a good poet, and is an advocate of the Indian Vedantic ideas that have crept into the great French poets, such as Victor Hugo and Lamartine and others, and the great German poets, such as Goethe, Schiller, and the rest. The influence of Vedanta on European poetry and philosophy is very great. Every good poet is a Vedantin, I find; and whoever writes some philosophical treatise has to draw upon Vedanta in some shape or other. Only some of them do not care to admit this indebtedness, and want to establish their complete originality, as Herbert Spencer and others, for instance. But the majority do openly acknowledge. And how can they help it — in these days of telegraphs and railways and newspapers? M. Jules Bois is very modest and gentle, and though a man of ordinary means, he very cordially received me as a guest into his house in Paris. Now he is accompanying us for travel.
We have two other companions on the journey as far as Constantinople — Père Hyacinthe and his wife. Père, i.e. Father Hyacinthe was a monk of a strict ascetic section of the Roman Catholic Church. His scholarship, extraordinary eloquence, and great austerities won for him a high reputation in France and in the whole Catholic Order. The great poet, Victor Hugo, used to praise the French style of two men — one of these was Père Hyacinthe. At forty years of age Père Hyacinthe fell in love with an American woman and eventually married her. This created a great sensation, and of course the Catholic Order immediately gave him up. Discarding his ascetic garb of bare feet and loose-fitting cloak, Père Hyacinthe took up the hat, coat, and boots of the householder and became — Monsieur Loyson. I, however, call him by his former name. It is an old, old tale, and the matter was the talk of the whole continent. The Protestants received him with honour, but the Catholics began to hate him. The Pope, in consideration of his attainments, was unwilling to part with him and asked him to remain a Greek Catholic priest, and not abandon the Roman Church. (The priests of the Greek Catholic section are allowed to marry but once, but do not get any high position). Mrs. Loyson, however, forcibly dragged him out of the Pope's fold. In course of time they had children and grandchildren; now the very aged Loyson is going to Jerusalem to try to establish cordial relations among the Christians and Mussulmans. His wife had perhaps seen many visions that Loyson might possibly turn out to be a second Martin Luther and overthrow the Pope's throne — into the Mediterranean. But nothing of the kind took place; and the only result was, as the French say, that he was placed between two stools. But Madame Loyson still cherishes her curious day-dreams! Old Loyson is very affable in speech, modest, and of a distinctly devotional turn of mind. Whenever he meets me, he holds pretty long talks about various religions and creeds. But being of a devotional temperament, he is a little afraid of the Advaita. Madame Loyson's attitude towards me is, I fear, rather unfavourable. When I discuss with the old man such topics as renunciation and monasticism etc., all those long-cherished sentiments wake up in his aged breast, and his wife most probably smarts all the while. Besides, all French people, of both sexes, lay the whole blame on the wife; they say, "That woman has spoilt one of our great ascetic monks!" Madame Loyson is really in a sorry predicament — specially as they live in Paris, in a Catholic country. They hate the very sight of a married priest; no Catholic would ever tolerate the preaching of religion by a man with family. And Madame Loyson has a bit of animus also. Once she expressed her dislike of an actress, saying, "It is very bad of you to live with Mr. So-and-so without marrying him". The actress immediately retorted, "I am a thousand times better than you. I live with a common man; it may be, I have not legally married him; whereas you are a great sinner — you have made such a great monk break his religious vows! If you were so desperately in love with the monk, why, you might as well live as his attending maid; but why did you bring ruin on him by marrying him and thus converting him into a householder?"
However I hear all and keep silent. But old Père Hyacinthe is a really sweet-natured and peaceful man, he is happy with his wife and family — and what can the whole French people have to say against this? I think, everything would be settled if but his wife climbed down a bit. But one thing I notice, viz. that men and women, in every country, have different ways of understanding and judging things. Men have one angle of vision, women another; men argue from one standpoint, women from another. Men extenuate women and lay the blame on men; while women exonerate men and heap all the blame on women.
One special benefit I get from the company of these ladies and gentlemen is that, except the one American lady, no one knows English; talking in English is wholly eschewed, (It is not etiquette in the West to talk in company any language but one known to all party.) and consequently somehow or other I have to talk as well as hear French.
From Paris our friend Maxim has supplied me with letters of introduction to various places, so that the countries may be properly seen. Maxim is the inventor of the famous Maxim gun — the gun that sends off a continuous round of balls and is loaded and discharged automatically without intermission. Maxim is by birth an American; now he has settled in England, where he has his gun-factories etc. Maxim is vexed if anybody alludes too frequently to his guns in his presence and says, "My friend, have I done nothing else except invent that engine of destruction?" Maxim is an admirer of China and India and is a good writer on religion and philosophy etc. Having read my works long since, he holds me in great — I should say, excessive — admiration. He supplies guns to all kings and rulers and is well known in every country, though his particular friend is Li Hung Chang, his special regard is for China and his devotion, for Confucianism. He is in the habit of writing occasionally in the newspapers, under Chinese pseudonyms, against the Christians — about what takes them to China, their real motive, and so forth. He cannot at all bear the Christian missionaries preaching their religion in China! His wife also is just like her husband in her regard for China and hatred of Christianity! Maxim has no issue; he is an old man, and immensely rich.
The tour programme was as follows — from Paris to Vienna, and thence to Constantinople, by rail; then by steamer to Athens and Greece, then across the Mediterranean to Egypt, then Asia Minor, Jerusalem, and so on. The "Oriental Express" runs daily from Paris to Constantinople, and is provided with sleeping, sitting, and dining accommodations after the American model. Though not perfect like the American cars, they are fairly well furnished. I am to leave Paris by that train on October 24 (1900).
Today is the 23rd October; tomorrow evening I am to take leave of Paris. This year Paris is a centre of the civilised world, for it is the year of the Paris Exhibition, and there has been an assemblage of eminent men and women from all quarters of the globe. The master-minds of all countries have met today in Paris to spread the glory of their respective countries by means of their genius. The fortunate man whose name the bells of this great centre will ring today will at the same time crown his country also with glory, before the world. And where art thou, my Motherland, Bengal, in the great capital city swarming with German, French, English, Italian, and other scholars? Who is there to utter thy name? Who is there to proclaim thy existence? From among that white galaxy of geniuses there stepped forth one distinguished youthful hero to proclaim the name of our Motherland, Bengal — it was the world-renowned scientist, Dr. (Later, Sir.) J. C. Bose! Alone, the youthful Bengali physicist, with galvanic quickness, charmed the Western audience today with his splendid genius; that electric charge infused pulsations of new life into the half-dead body of the Motherland! At the top of all physicists today is — Jagadish Chandra Bose, an Indian, a Bengali! Well done, hero! Whichever countries, Dr. Bose and his accomplished, ideal wife may visit, everywhere they glorify India — add fresh laurels to the crown of Bengal. Blessed pair!
And the daily reunion of numbers of distinguished men and women which Mr. Leggett brought about at an enormous expense in his Parisian mansion, by inviting them to at-homes — that too ends today.
All types of distinguished personages — poets, philosophers, scientists, moralists, politicians, singers, professors, painters, artists, sculptors, musicians, and so on, of both sexes — used to be assembled in Mr. Leggett's residence, attracted by his hospitality and kindness. That incessant outflow of words, clear and limpid like a mountainfall, that expression of sentiments emanating from all sides like sparks of fire, bewitching music, the magic current of thoughts from master minds coming into conflict with one another — which used to hold all spellbound, making them forgetful of time and place — these too shall end.
Everything on earth has an end. Once again I took a round over the Paris Exhibition today — this accumulated mass of dazzling ideas, like lightning held steady as it were, this unique assemblage of celestial panorama on earth!
It has been raining in Paris for the last two or three days. During all this time the sun who is ever kind to France has held back his accustomed grace. Perhaps his face has been darkened over with clouds in disgust to witness the secretly flowing current of sensuality behind this assemblage of arts and artists, learning and learned folk, or perhaps he has hid his face under a pall of cloud in grief over the impending destruction of this illusive heaven of particoloured wood and canvas.
We too shall be happy to escape. The breaking up of the Exhibition is a big affair; the streets of this heaven on earth, the Eden-like Paris, will be filled with knee-deep mud and mortar. With the exception of one or two main buildings, all the houses and their parts are but a display of wood and rags and whitewashing — just as the whole world is! And when they are demolished, the lime-dust flies about and is suffocating; rags and sand etc. make the streets exceedingly dirty; and, if it rains in addition, it is an awful mess.
In the evening of October 24 the train left Paris. The night was dark and nothing could be seen. Monsieur Bois and myself occupied one compartment — and early went to bed. On awakening from sleep we found we had crossed the French frontier and entered German territory. I had already seen Germany thoroughly; but Germany, after France, produces quite a jarring effect. "On the one hand the moon is setting" ( यात्येकतोऽस्तशिखरं पतिरोषधीनां — From Kalidasa's Shakuntalâ.) — the world-encompassing France is slowly consuming herself in the fire of contemplated retribution — while on the other hand, centralised, young, and mighty Germany has begun her upward march above the horizon with rapid strides. On one side is the artistic workmanship of the dark-haired, comparatively short-statured, luxurious, highly civilised French people, to whom art means life; and on the other, the clumsy daubing, the unskilful manipulation, of tawny-haired, tall, gigantic German. After Paris there is no other city in the Western world; everywhere it is an imitation of Paris — or at least an attempt at it. But in France that art is full of grace and ethereal beauty, while in Germany, England, and America the imitation is coarse and clumsy. Even the application of force on the part of the French is beautiful, as it were, whereas the attempt of the Germans to display beauty even is terrible. The countenance of French genius, even when frowning in anger, is beautiful; that of German genius, even when beaming with smiles, appears frightful, as it were. French civilisation is full of nerve, like camphor or musk — it volatilises and pervades the room in a moment; while German civilisation is full of muscle, heavy like lead or mercury — it remains motionless and inert wherever it lies. The German muscle can go on striking small blows untiringly, till death; the French have tender, feminine bodies, but when they do concentrate and strike, it is a sledge-hammer blow and is irresistible.
The Germans are constructing after the French fashion big houses and mansions, and placing big statues, equestrian figures, etc. on top of them, but on seeing a double-storeyed German building one is tempted to ask — is it a dwelling-house for men, or a stable for elephants and camels, while one mistakes a five-storeyed French stable for elephants and horses as a habitation for fairies.
America is inspired by German ideals; hundreds of thousand Germans are in every town. The language is of course English, but nevertheless America is being slowly Germanised. Germany is fast multiplying her population and is exceptionally hardy. Today Germany is the dictator to all Europe, her place is above all! Long before all other nations, Germany has given man and woman compulsory education, making illiteracy punishable by law, and today she is enjoying the fruits of that tree. The German army is the foremost in reputation, and Germany has vowed to become foremost in her navy also. German manufacture of commodities has beaten even England! German merchandise and the Germans themselves are slowly obtaining a monopoly even in the English colonies. At the behest of the German Emperor all the nations have ungrudgingly submitted to the lead of the German Generalissimo in the battle-fields of China!
The whole day the train rushed through Germany, till in the afternoon it reached the frontiers of Austria, the ancient sphere of German supremacy, but now an alien territory. There are certain troubles in travelling through Europe. In every country enormous duties are levied upon certain things, or some articles of merchandise are the monopoly of the Government, as for instance, tobacco. Again, in Russia and Turkey, you are totally forbidden to enter without a royal passport; a passport you must always have. Besides, in Russia and Turkey, all your books and papers will be seized; and when on perusal the authorities are satisfied that there is nothing in them against the Russian or Turkish Government and religion, then only they will be returned, otherwise they will all be confiscated. In other countries your tobacco is a source of great trouble. You must open your chest, and trunk and packages for inspection whether they contain tobacco etc. or not. And to come to Constantinople one has to pass through two big States — Germany and Austria, and many petty ones; the latter had formerly been districts of Turkey, but later on the independent Christian kings made a common cause and wrested as many of these Christian districts from Mohammedan hands as they could. The bite of these tiny ants is much worse than even that of the bigger ones.
In the evening of October 25 the train reached Vienna, the capital of Austria. The members of the royal family in Austria and Russia are styled Archdukes and Archduchesses. Two Archdukes are to get down at Vienna by this train; and until they have done so the other passengers are not allowed to get down. So we had to wait. A few officers in laced uniform and some soldiers with feathered caps were waiting for the Archdukes, who got down surrounded by them. We too felt relieved and made haste to get down and have our luggage passed. There were few passengers, and it did not take us much time to show our luggage and have it passed. A hotel had already been arranged for, and a man from the hotel was waiting for us with a carriage. We reached the hotel duly. It was out of the question to go out for sight-seeing during the night; so the next morning we started to see the town. In all hotels, and almost in all the countries of Europe except England and Germany, the French fashion prevails. They eat twice a day like the Hindus; in the morning by twelve o'clock, and in the evening by eight. Early in the morning, that is, about eight or nine, they take a little coffee. Tea is very little in vogue except in England and Russia. The morning meal is called in French déjeuner — that is, breakfast, and the evening meal dîner — that is, dinner. Tea is very much in use in Russia — it is too cold, and China is near enough. Chinese tea is excellent, and most of it goes to Russia. The Russian mode of drinking tea is also analogous to the Chinese, that is, without mixing milk. Tea or coffee becomes injurious like poison if you mix milk with it. The real tea-drinking races, the Chinese, Japanese, Russians, and the inhabitants of Central Asia, take tea without milk. Similarly, the original coffee-drinking races, such as the Turks, drink coffee without milk. Only in Russia they put a slice of lemon and a lump of sugar into the tea. The poor people place a lump of sugar in the mouth and drink tea over it, and when one has finished drinking, one passes that lump on to another, who repeats the process.
Vienna is a small city after the model of Paris. But the Austrians are German by race. The Austrian Emperor was hitherto the Emperor of almost the whole of Germany. In the present times, owing to the far-sightedness of King Wilhelm of Prussia, the wonderful diplomacy of his able minister, Bismark, and the military genius of General Von Moltke, the King of Prussia is the Emperor of the whole of Germany barring Austria. Austria, shorn of her glory and robbed of her power, is somehow maintaining her ancient name and prestige. The Austrian royal line — the Hapsburg Dynasty — is the oldest and most aristocratic dynasty in Europe. It was this Austrian dynasty which hitherto rules Germany as Emperors — Germany whose princes are seated on the thrones of almost all the countries of Europe, and whose petty feudatory chiefs even occupy the thrones of such powerful empires as England and Russia. The desire for that honour and prestige Austria still cherishes in full, only she lacks the power. Turkey is called "the sick man" of Europe; then Austria should be called "the sick dame". Austria belongs to the Catholic sect, and until recently the Austrian Empire used to be called "the Holy Roman Empire". Modern Germany has a preponderance of Protestants. The Austrian Emperor has always been the right-hand man of the Pope, his faithful follower, and the leader of the Roman Catholic sect. Now the Austrian Emperor is the only Catholic Ruler in Europe; France, the eldest daughter of the Catholic Church, is now a Republic, while Spain and Portugal are downfallen! Italy has given only room enough for the Papal throne to be established, robbing the Pope's entire splendour and dominion; between the King of Italy and the Pope of Rome there is no love lost, they cannot bear each other's sight. Rome, the capital of the Pope, is now the capital of Italy. The King lives in the Pope's ancient palace which he has seized, and the ancient Italian kingdom of the Pope is now confined within the precincts of the Vatican. But the Pope has still great influence in religious matters — and the chief supporter of this is Austria. As a result of the struggle against Austria — against the age-long thraldom of Austria, the ally of the Pope — up rose modern Italy. Consequently Austria is against Italy — against, because she lost her. Unfortunately, however, young Italy, under England's misdirection, set herself to create a powerful army and navy. But where was the money? So, involved in debt, Italy is on the way to ruin; and to her misfortune, she brought on herself a fresh trouble by proceeding to extend her empire in Africa. Defeated by the Abyssinian monarch, she has sunk down, bereft of glory and prestige. Prussia in the meantime defeated Austria in a great war and thrust her off to a great distance. Austria is slowly dying, while Italy has similarly fettered herself by the misuse of her new life.
The Austrian royal line is still the proudest of all European royal families. It boasts of being a very ancient and very aristocratic dynasty. The marriages and other connections of this line are contracted with the greatest circumspection, and no such relationship can be established with families that are not Roman Catholic. It was the glamour of a connection with this line that led to the fall of Napoleon the Great. Quaintly enough, he took it into his head to marry a daughter of some noble royal family and found a great dynasty through a succession of descendents. The hero who, questioned as to his pedigree, had replied, "I owe the title to my nobility to none — I am to be the founder of a great dynasty" — that is to say, that he would originate a powerful dynasty, and that he was not born to glorify himself with the borrowed plumes of some ancestor — that hero fell into this abyss of family prestige.
The divorce of the Empress Josephine, the defeat of the Austrian Emperor in battle and taking his daughter to wife, the marriage of Bonaparte in great pomp with Marie Louise, the Princess of Austria, the birth of a son, the installation of the new-born babe as the King of Rome, the fall of Napoleon, the enmity of his father-in-law, Leipsic, Waterloo, St. Helena, Empress Marie Louise living in her father's house with her child, the marriage of Napoleon's royal consort with an ordinary soldier, the death of his only son, the King of Rome, in the house of his maternal grandfather — all these are well-known incidents of history.
Fallen in a comparatively weakened condition, France is now ruminating on her past glory — nowadays there are very many books on Napoleon. Dramatists like Sardou are writing many dramas on Napoleon dead and gone; and actresses like Madame Bernhardt and Réjane are performing those plays every night before bumper houses. Recently Madame Bernhardt has created a great attraction in Paris by playing a drama entitled L’aiglon (the Young Eagle).
The young Eagle is the only son of Napoleon, practically interned in his maternal grandfather's residence, the Palace of Vienna. The Austrian Emperor's minister, the Machiavellian Metternich, is always careful not to allow the tales of heroism of his father to enter into the boy's mind. But a few of Bonaparte's veterans contrived to get themselves admitted into the boy's service in the Schönbrunn Palace, incognito; their idea was to somehow take the boy over to France and found the Bonaparte line by driving out the Bourbons reinstated by the combined European potentates. The child was the son of a great hero, and very soon that latent heroism woke up in him to hear the glorious tales of battle of his father. One day the boy fled from the Schönbrunn Palace accompanied by the conspirators. But Metternich's keen intellect had already scented the matter, and he cut off the journey. The son of Bonaparte was carried back to the Schönbrunn Palace and the Young Eagle, with his wings tied, as it were, very soon died of a broken heart!
This Schönbrunn Palace is an ordinary palace. Of course, the rooms etc. are lavishly decorated; in one of them perhaps one meets with only Chinese workmanship, in another only works of Hindu art, in a third the productions of some other country, and so on; and the garden attached to the Palace is very charming indeed. But all the people that now go to visit this Palace go there with the object of seeing the room where Bonaparte's son used to lie, or his study, or the room in which he died, and so forth. Many thoughtless French men and women are interrogating the guard, which room belonged to "L’aiglon", which bed did "L’aiglon" use to occupy, and so on. What silly questions, these! The Austrians only know that he was the son of Bonaparte, and the relation was established by forcibly taking their girl in marriage; that hatred they have not yet forgotten. The Prince was a grandchild of the Emperor, and homeless, so they could not help giving him a shelter, but they could give him no such title as "King of Rome"; only, being the grandson of the Austrian Emperor, he was an Archduke, that was all. It may be that you French people have now written a book on him, making him the Young Eagle, and the addition of imaginary settings and the genius of Madame Bernhardt have created a great interest in the story, but how should an Austrian guard know that name? Besides, it has been written in that book that the Austrian Emperor, following the advice of his minister Metternich, in a way killed Napoleon's son!
Hearing the name "L’aiglon", the guard put on a long face and went on showing the rooms and other things thoroughly disgusted at heart; what else could he do? — it was too much for him to give up the tips. Moreover, in countries like Austria etc., the military department is too poorly paid, they have to live almost on a bare pittance; of course they are allowed to go back home after a few years' service. The guard's countenance darkened as an expression of his patriotism, but the hand instinctively moved towards the tip. The French visitors put some silver pieces into the guard's hand and returned home talking of "L’aiglon" and abusing Metternich, while the guard shut the doors with a long salute. In his heart he must have given sweet names to the ancestors of the whole French people.
The thing most worth seeing in Vienna is the Museum, specially the Scientific Museum, an institution of great benefit to the student. There is a fine collection of the skeletons of various species of ancient extinct animals. In the Art Gallery, paintings by Dutch artists form the major portion. In the Dutch school, there is very little attempt at suggestiveness; this school is famous for its exact copy of natural objects and creatures. One artist has spent years over the drawing of a basketful of fish, or a lump of flesh, or a tumbler of water — and that fish, or flesh, or water in the tumbler is wonderful. But the female figures of the Dutch school look just like athletes.
There is of course German scholarship and German intellectuality in Vienna, but the causes which helped the gradual decay of Turkey are at work here also — that is to say, the mixture of various races and languages. The population of Austria proper speaks German; the people of Hungary belong to the Tartar stock, and have a different language; while there are some who are Greek-speaking and are Christians belonging to the Greek Church. Austria has not the power to fuse together so many different sects. Hence she has fallen.
In the present times a huge wave of nationalism is sweeping over Europe, where people speaking the same tongue, professing the same religion, and belonging to the same race want to unite together. Wherever such union is being effectively accomplished, there is great power being manifested; and where this is impossible, death is inevitable. After the death of the present Austrian Emperor, (Francis Joseph II died in 1916) Germany will surely try to absorb the German-speaking portion of the Austrian Empire — and Russia and others are sure to oppose her; so there is the possibility of a dreadful war. The present Emperor being very old, that catastrophe may take place very early. The German Emperor is nowadays an ally of the Sultan of Turkey; and when Germany will attempt to seize Austrian territory, Turkey, which is Russia's enemy, will certainly offer some resistance to Russia; so the German Emperor is very friendly towards Turkey.
Three days in Vienna were sufficient to tire me. To visit Europe after Paris is like tasting an inferior preparation after a sumptuous feast — that dress, and style of eating, that same fashion everywhere; throughout the land you meet with that same black suit, and the same queer hat — disgusting! Besides, you have clouds above, and this swarm of people with black hats and black coats below — one feels suffocated, as it were. All Europe is gradually taking up that same style of dress, and that same mode of living! It is a law of nature that such are the symptoms of death! By hundreds of years of drill, our ancestors have so fashioned us that we all clean our teeth, wash our face, eat our meals, and do everything in the same way, and the result is that we have gradually become mere automata; the life has gone out, and we are moving about, simply like so many machines! Machines never say "yea" or "nay", never trouble their heads about anything, they move on "in the way their forefathers have gone", and then rot and die. The Europeans too will share the same fate! "The course of time is ever changing! If all people take to the same dress, same food, same manner of talking, and same everything, gradually they will become like so many machines, will gradually tread the path their forefathers have trod", and as an inevitable consequence of that — they will rot and die!
On the 28th October, at 9 p.m., we again took that Orient Express train, which reached Constantinople on the 30th. These two nights and one day the train ran through Hungary, Serbia, and Bulgaria. The people of Hungary are subjects of the Austrian Emperor, whose title, however, is "Emperor of Austria and King of Hungary". The Hungarians and Turks are of the same race, akin to the Tibetans. The Hungarians entered Europe along the north of the Caspian Sea, while the Turks slowly occupied Europe through the western borders of Persia and through Asia Minor. The people of Hungary are Christians, and the Turks are Mohammedans, but the martial spirit characteristic of Tartar blood is noticeable in both. The Hungarians have fought again and again for separation from Austria and are now but nominally united. The Austrian Emperor is King of Hungary in name only. Their capital, Budapest, is a very neat and beautiful city. The Hungarians are a pleasure-loving race and fond of music, and you will find Hungarian bands all over Paris.
Serbia, Bulgaria, and the rest were districts of Turkey and have become practically independent after the Russo-Turkish War; but the Sultan of Turkey is yet their Emperor; and Serbia and Bulgaria have no right regarding foreign affairs. There are three civilised nations in Europe — the French, the Germans, and the English. The rest are almost as badly off as we are, and the majority of them are so uncivilised that you can find no race in Asia so degraded. Throughout Serbia and Bulgaria you find the same mud houses, and people dressed in tattered rags, and heaps of filth — and I was almost inclined to think I was back to India! Again, as they are Christians, they must have a number of hogs; and a single hog will make a place more dirty than two hundred barbarous men will be able to do. Living in a mud house with mud roof, with tattered rags on his person, and surrounded by hogs — there you have your Serb or Bulgarian! After much bloodshed and many wars, they have thrown off the yoke of Turkey; but along with this they have got a serious disadvantage — they must construct their army after the European model, otherwise the existence of not one of them is safe for a day. Of course, sooner or later they will all one day be absorbed by Russia; but even this two days' existence is impossible without an army. So they must have conscription.
In an evil hour, did France suffer defeat from Germany. Through anger and fear she made every citizen a soldier. Every man must serve for some time in the army and learn the military science; there is no exemption for anybody. He must have to live in the barracks for three years and learn to fight, shouldering his gun, be he a millionaire by birth. The government will provide for his food and clothing, and the salary will be a centime (one pice) a day. After this he must be always ready for active service for two years at his home; and another fifteen years he must be ready to present himself for service at the first call. Germany set a lion to fury, so she too had to be ready. In other countries also conscription has been introduced in mutual dread of one another — so throughout Europe, excepting only England. England, being an island, is continually strengthening her navy, but who knows if the lessons of the Boer War will not force her to introduce conscription. Russia has the largest population of all, so she can amass the biggest army in Europe. Now, the titular states, like Serbia and Bulgaria, which the European Powers are creating by dismembering Turkey — they, too, as soon as they are born, must have up-to-date trained and well-equipped armies and guns etc. But ultimately who is to supply the funds? Consequently the peasants have had to put on tattered rags — while in the towns you will find soldiers dressed in gorgeous uniforms. Throughout Europe there is a craze for soldiers — soldiers everywhere. Still, liberty is one thing and slavery another; even best work loses its charm if one is forced to do it by another. Without the idea of personal responsibility, no one can achieve anything great. Freedom with but one meal a day and tattered rags on is a million times better than slavery in gold chains. A slave suffers the miseries of hell both here and hereafter. The people of Europe joke about the Serbs and Bulgarians etc., and taunt them with their mistakes and shortcomings. But can they attain proficiency all in a day, after so many years of servitude? Mistakes they are bound to commit — ay, by the hundreds — but they will learn through these mistakes and set them right when they have learnt. Give him responsibility and the weakest man will become strong, and the ignorant man sagacious.
The train is traversing Hungary, Rumania, and other countries. Among the races that inhabit the moribund Austrian Empire, the Hungarians yet possess vitality. All the races of Europe, except one or two small ones, belong to the great stock which European scholars term the Indo-European or Aryan race. The Hungarians are among the few races which do not speak a Sanskritic language. The Hungarians and Turks, as already stated, belong to the same race. In comparatively modern times this very powerful race established their sovereignty in Asia and Europe. The country now called Turkistan, lying to the north of the Western Himalayas and the Hindukush range, was the original home of the Turks. The Turkish name for that country is Chagwoi. The Mogul dynasty of Delhi, the present Persian royal line, the dynasty of the Turkish Sultan of Constantinople, and the Hungarians have all gradually extended their dominion from that country, beginning with India, and pushing right up to Europe, and even today these dynasties style themselves as Chagwois and speak a common language. Of course these Turks were uncivilised ages ago, and used to roam with herds of sheep, horses, and cattle, taking their wives and children and every earthly possession with them, and encamp for some time wherever they could find enough pasture for their beasts. And when grass and water ran short there, they used to remove somewhere else. Even now many families of this race lead nomadic lives in this way in Central Asia. They have got a perfect similarity with the races of Central Asia as regards language, but some difference in point of physiognomy. The Turk's face resembles that of the Mongolian in the shape of the head and in the prominence of the cheek-bone, but the Turk's nose is not flat, but rather long, and the eyes are straight and large, though the space between the eyes of comparatively wide, as with the Mongolians. It appears that from a long time past Aryan and Semitic blood has found its way into this Turkish race. From time immemorial the Turks have been exceedingly fond of war. And the mixture with them of Sanskrit-speaking races and the people of Kandahar and Persia has produced the war-loving races such as the Afghans, Khiljis, Hazaras, Barakhais, Usufjais, etc., to whom war is a passion and who have frequently oppressed India.
In very ancient times this Turkish race repeatedly conquered the western provinces of India and founded extensive kingdoms. They were Buddhists, or would turn Buddhists after occupying Indian territory. In the ancient history of Kashmir there is mention of these famous Turkish Emperors, Hushka, Yushka, and Kanishka. It was this Kanishka who founded the Northern school of Buddhism called the Mahâyâna. Long after, the majority of them took to Mohammedanism and completely devastated the chief Buddhistic seats of Central Asia such as Kandahar and Kabul. Before their conversion to Mohammedanism they used to imbibe the learning and culture of the countries they conquered, and by assimilating the culture of other countries would try to propagate civilisation. But ever since they became Mohammedans, they have only the instinct for war left in them; they have not got the least vestige of learning and culture; on the contrary, the countries that come under their sway gradually have their civilisation extinguished. In many places of modern Afghanistan and Kandahar etc., there yet exist wonderful Stupas, monasteries, temples and gigantic statues built by their Buddhistic ancestors. As a result of Turkish admixture and their conversion to Mohammedanism, those temples etc. are almost in ruins, and the present Afghans and allied races have grown so uncivilised and illiterate that far from imitating those ancient works of architecture, they believe them to be the creation of supernatural spirits like the Jinn etc., and are firmly convinced that such great undertakings are beyond the power of man to accomplish. The principal cause of the present degradation of Persia is that the royal line belongs to the powerful, uncivilised Turkish stock, whereas the subjects are the descendants of the highly civilised ancient Persians, who were Aryans. In this way the Empire of Constantinople — the last political arena of the Greeks and Romans, the descendants of civilised Aryans — has been ruined under the blasting feet of powerful, barbarous Turkey. The Mogul Emperors of India were the only exceptions to this rule; perhaps that was due to an admixture of Hindu ideas and Hindu blood. In the chronicles of Rajput bards and minstrels all the Mohammedan dynasties who conquered India are styled as Turks. This is a very correct appellation, for, or whatever races the conquering Mohammedan armies might be made up, the leadership was always vested in the Turks alone.
What is called the Mohammedan invasion, conquest, or colonisation of India means only this that, under the leadership of Mohammedan Turks who were renegades from Buddhism, those sections of the Hindu race who continued in the faith of their ancestors were repeatedly conquered by the other section of that very race who also were renegades from Buddhism or the Vedic religion and served under the Turks, having been forcibly converted to Mohammedanism by their superior strength. Of course, the language of the Turks has, like their physiognomy, been considerably mixed up; specially those sections that have gone farthest from their native place. Chagwoi have got the most hybrid form of language. This year the Shah of Persia visited the Paris Exhibition and returned to his country by rail via Constantinople. Despite the immense difference in time and place, the Sultan and the Shah talked with each other in their ancient Turkish mother tongue. But the Sultan's Turkish was mixed up with Persian, Arabic, and a few Greek words, while that of the Shah was comparatively pure.
In ancient times these Chagwoi Turks were divided into two sections; one was called the "white sheep", and the other, "black sheep". But these sections started from their birthplace on the north of Kashmir, tending their flocks of sheep and ravaging countries, till they reached the shore of the Caspian Sea. The "white sheep" penetrated into Europe along the north of the Caspian Sea and founded the Kingdom of Hungary, seizing a fragment of the Roman Empire then almost in ruins, while the "black sheep", advancing along the south of the Caspian Sea, gradually occupied the western portion of Persia and, crossing the Caucasus, by degrees made themselves masters of Arabian territory such as Asia Minor and so forth; gradually they seized the throne of the Caliph, and bit by bit annexed the small remnant of the western Roman Empire. In very remote ages these Turks were great snake-worshippers. Most probably it was these dynasties whom the ancient Hindus used to designate as Nagas and Takshakas. Later on they became Buddhists; and afterwards they very often used to embrace the religion of any particular country they might conquer at any particular time. In comparatively recent times, of the two sections we are speaking about, the "white sheep" conquered the Christians and became converts to Christianity, while the "black sheep" conquered the Mohammedans and adopted their religion. But in their Christianity or Mohammedanism one may even now trace on research the strata of serpent-worship and of Buddhism.
The Hungarians, though Turks by race and language, are Christians — Roman Catholics — in religion. In the past, religious fanaticism had no respect for any tie — neither the tie of language, nor that of blood, nor that of country. The Hungarians are ever the deadly enemies of Turkey; and but for the Hungarians' aid Christian states, such as Austria etc., would not have been able to maintain their existence on many an occasion. In modern times, owing to the spread of education and the discovery of Linguistics and Ethnology, people are being more attracted to the kinship of language and blood, while religious solidarity is gradually slackening. So, among the educated Hungarians and Turks, there is growing up a feeling of racial unity. Though a part of the Austrian Empire, Hungary has repeatedly tried to cut off from her. The result of many revolutions and rebellions has been that Hungary is now only nominally a province of the Austrian Empire, but practically independent in all respects. The Austrian Emperor is styled "the Emperor of Austria and King of Hungary". Hungary manages all her internal affairs independently of Austria and in these the subjects have full power. The Austrian Emperor continues to be a titular leader here, but even this bit of relation, it appears, will not last long. Skill in war, magnanimity and other characteristic virtues of the Turkish race are sufficiently present in the Hungarian also. Besides, not being converted to Mohammedanism they do not consider such heavenly arts as music etc. as the devil's snare, and consequently the Hungarians are great adepts in music and are renowned for this all over Europe.
Formerly I had the notion that people of cold climates did not take hot chillies, which was merely a bad habit of warm climate people. But the habit of taking chillies, which we observed to begin with Hungary and which reached its climax in Rumania and Bulgaria etc., appeared to me to beat even your South Indians.
文本来自Wikisource公共领域。原版由阿德瓦伊塔修道院出版。